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Vota Anse Forbans


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Anse Forbans Swell Statistics, Autumn: All Swell – Any Wind

The rose diagram describes the combination of swells directed at Anse Forbans through a typical southern hemisphere autumn, based on 8052 NWW3 model predictions since 2007 (values every 3 hours). The wave model does not forecast wind or surf right at the coast so we have chosen the optimum grid node based on what we know about Anse Forbans. In this particular case the best grid node is 25 km away (16 miles).

The rose diagram shows the distribution of swell directions and swell sizes, while the graph at the bottom shows the same thing without direction information. Five colours illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blue shows the smallest swells, less that 0.5m (1.5 feet) high. These happened only 68% of the time. Green and yellow illustrate increasing swell sizes and highest swells greater than >3m (>10ft) are shown in red. In either graph, the area of any colour is proportional to how frequently that size swell happens.

The diagram suggests that the most common swell direction, shown by the largest spokes, was SSW, whereas the the dominant wind blows from the ESE. Because the wave model grid is away from the coast, sometimes a strong offshore wind blows largest waves away from Anse Forbans and out to sea. We lump these in with the no surf category of the bar chart. To avoid confusion we don't show these in the rose diagram. Because wind determines whether or not waves are clean enough to surf at Anse Forbans, you can select a similar diagram that shows only the swells that were expected to coincide with glassy or offshore wind conditions. Over an average southern hemisphere autumn, swells large enough to cause surfable waves at Anse Forbans run for about 32% of the time.

IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.