Audierne Swell Statistics, Winter: Surf with Light or Offshore Winds
This image shows only the swells directed at Audierne that coincided with light winds or offshore conditions over a normal northern hemisphere winter. It is based on 6931 predictions, one every 3 hours. The direction of the spokes show where quality surf generating swell comes from. Five colours show increasing wave sizes. The smallest swells, less than 0.5m (1.5 feet), high are coloured blue. Green and yellow illustrate increasing swell sizes and red represents largest swells greater than >3m (>10ft). In both graphs, the area of any colour is proportional to how frequently that size swell occurs.
The diagram suggests that the dominant swell direction, shown by the longest spokes, was W (which was the same as the most common wind direction). The chart at the bottom shows the same thing but without direction information. For example, swells larger than 1.5 feet (0.5m) coincided with good wind conditions 20% of the time, equivalent to 18 days. Expect open water swells to exceed >3m (>10ft) 4% of the time (4 days). Taking into account the proportion of these swells that coincided with predicted offshore winds, and given the fact that Audierne is slightly protected from open water swells, we calculate that clean surf can be found at Audierne about 20% of the time and that surf is messed up by onshore wind 61% of the time. This is means that we expect 74 days with waves in a typical northern hemisphere winter, of which 18 days should be surfable.
IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.