uk es it fr pt nl

Surf Report Feed

Imperial Pier (North and South) Swell Statistics, Gennaio: All Swell – Any Wind

This picture describes the range of swells directed at Imperial Pier (North and South) through an average January. It is based on 2868 NWW3 model predictions since 2007 (values every 3 hours). The wave model does not forecast surf and wind right at the coast so we have chosen the best grid node based on what we know about Imperial Pier (North and South). In this particular case the best grid node is 35 km away (22 miles).

The rose diagram illustrates the distribution of swell directions and swell sizes, while the graph at the bottom shows the same thing but lacks direction information. Five colours represent increasing wave sizes. Very small swells of less than 0.5m (1.5 feet) high are shown in blue. These happened only 0.8% of the time. Green and yellow represent increasing swell sizes and red represents the highest swells, greater than >3m (>10ft). In both graphs, the area of any colour is proportional to how commonly that size swell was forecast.

The diagram implies that the most common swell direction, shown by the longest spokes, was W, whereas the the dominant wind blows from the NNW. Because the wave model grid is away from the coast, sometimes a strong offshore wind blows largest waves away from Imperial Pier (North and South) and out to sea. We combine these with the no surf category of the bar chart. To keep it simple we don't show these in the rose plot. Because wind determines whether or not waves are clean enough to surf at Imperial Pier (North and South), you can select a similar diagram that shows only the swells that were forecast to coincide with glassy or offshore wind conditions. In a typical January, swells large enough to cause surfable waves at Imperial Pier (North and South) run for about 99% of the time.

IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.